AeroBarrier may be applied at any time between rough-in and prior to occupancy. Although, the ideal time to apply AeroBarrier is rough-in or post-drywall. Other factors that effect install is build process and climate zone.
No. During application, if a technician has to enter the space while it is being sealed they wear personal protective equipment (PPE). After the sealing is complete, the area is safe to enter without protective gear within 20 to 30 minutes.
The AeroBarrier sealant is based on a waterborne acrylic that has been used as a fluid-applied permeable air barrier for many years. The sealant is GREENGUARD Gold certified and has been tested according to various ASTM standards and NFPA 285, for fire spread, smoke production, adhesion, antifungal properties, tensile strength, etc..
The sealant is low VOC and has no off-gassing.
The entire AeroBarrier process, from setup to completion, takes approximately 4-hours for a typical single-family home. When targeting reduced envelope leakage levels of Passive House or ZERH, additional time may be required.
Cost will depend on the construction phase and targeted air tightness levels. Once we have your job specifications, we provide a written quote within 24 hours. Call us at (501) 413-9411 or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org to talk about your project.
Third-party lab testing reveals AeroBarrier withstands a simulated 50-year durability test, with little or no seal degradation.
AeroBarrier seals holes as large as ½”, and as tiny as a human hair. Aerosol sealing is extremely effective at sealing narrow gaps and extremely small holes that are typically not cost-effective or are missed during manual sealing.
If AeroBarrier is applied at rough-in or right after drywall is installed, there in very minimal preparation required. Vertical surfaces like walls and windows require no covering. All designed openings, such as ducts, electrical and plumbing, need to be covered prior to sealing. All finished horizontal surfaces need to be covered.
The AeroBarrier process requires temperature control and pressurizing the areas to be sealed. Ideal conditions is an outdoor temperature of ≥ 40˚F. Sealing can be done below 40˚F but may require additional steps for the preparation.
Yes, the AeroBarrier sealant is GreenGuard Gold Certified, meaning that it is both safe to be used inside a home, and also meets the stricter certification requirements for use in schools and healthcare facilities as well.
The area needs to be aired out for 30 minutes after the sealing is complete. This is done by opening doors and windows while running the fan. But work can resume in the space as soon as the sealing equipment is removed and 30 min has passed.
The AeroBarrier system uses a standard blower door to measure envelope leakage during the process. The blower door is calibrated to meet ASTM Standard E779, E1554, CGSB-149.10-M86, EN 13829, ATTMA Technical Standard 1, NFPA 2001, RESNET and USACE.
Yes! Sealing your vents and ducts means that air is delivered where it’s needed, and not into your basement, attic or crawl space. This also helps get rid of hot and cold spots in your house.
Absolutely! Leaky ducts and vents pull in dust, mold and dander and then blow them into living rooms, bedrooms and kitchens. Our system can reduce leaky areas by as much as 90%, making sure dirt isn’t circulated in your house.
A lot! Independent government-sponsored studies have shown that sealing your ducts can save you up to $850 per year. Most homeowners save as much as 20%-40% of their total bill. Exact energy savings are difficult to predict, since they depend on where you live, how old the house is, how up to date your system is, and etc.
On our first visit to your home, we will look for any obvious leaks in your heat and air system. We can calculate how much cold and hot air you are actually losing in places like your attic, your garage and in between walls. Many people already know they have hot and cold spots, or their energy bills are higher than they should be. So, our initial test helps you understand how well or how poorly your system is performing. Many people are surprised to find out how much good air they are losing through leaking ducts and vents.
Yes! Our formula is a water-soluble organic compound. We’ve helped hospitals, surgery centers, schools and public buildings make sure their air is clean and healthy. You certainly can stay in your house while the technician is working (although we prefer that no one be in the home so our technicians can work quickly and efficiently), but as a precaution, we do recommend pregnant women, elderly people, and those with any breathing difficulties not be present while we are sealing your ducts and vents.
Our sealant formula is derived from a natural organic compound; is safe to breathe; has been tested by an independent lab, and found to have an extremely low concentration of VOCs. Some say it has a small odor compared to Elmer’s glue, which goes away within a few hours after completing the service.
Holes bigger than 5/8 inches in diameter are too big for the sealant to bond to effectively. Any larger, major leaks- like broken, disconnect or damaged ducts- will need to be repaired prior to sealing. Most of the time, we uncover problems like this during our initial inspection. However if we find this during our sealing process, we will stop our service and recommend a solution.
Some of our formula may leak into the places where your air previously leaking-attics, garages and wall cavities. This is totally harmless, and will dry. As part of our process, we filter the air to make sure non of our sealant vapor escapes into your living areas.
No. Our certified technicians are trained to protect all of your home equipment prior to sealing. Our formula is delivered via a temporary access point. Some items, like humidifiers or UV lights, may need to be removed and then re-installed as a precaution. Or, these items may simply be bagged or covered. If you have any extra-sensitive equipment, we do recommend that you cover it- especially if it is close to air returns or registers. You don’t need to cover any furniture. Our technician will take care of all this for you.
It depends on how much duct work you have, and how many leaks, but generally about two hours.
We guarantee our work last for at least 10 years, and we’ve stress-tested it up to 40 years in homes. We expect your heating and cooling systems to work efficiently for as long as you own your home.
Sometimes, but not always. Any ducts that are extremely dirty should be cleaned first. We find this most often in older houses. Our technician will take a look at this during the initial inspection, and recommend a cleaning if needed.
Yes. Ducts from all types of materials can be successfully cleaned after bein sealed. Our formula dries into a very hard, very durable substance.
No. Our formula doesn’t coat or line your ducts. The only sealant remaining after our technician is done will be over the leak that was sealed.
Not really. This noise is usually caused by two things- either the ductwork is too small for the size of the furnace or air conditioner you have, or the air flow through the indoor coil of your system is restricted for some reason. A contractor can identify the cause or any “loud” equipment and can recommend a solution for noise reduction. Our formula doesn’t coat or line your ducts. The only sealant remaining after our technician is done will be over the leak that was sealed.
The primary causes of condensation on ductwork in unconditioned crawlspaces and attics is missing or otherwise inadequate duct insulation, no or poor vapor barrier on the ducts and/or too much moisture in the ambient air. If the above are addressed properly this usually eliminates or minimizes the problem greatly. Sealing the crawlspace is generally recommended as well, and a vapor barrier on the crawl space floor or ground to decrease moisture absorption into the air is a good idea. A free standing dehumidifier should also help. Aeroseal may help to a lesser degree if duct air leaks, beneath insulation are causing the duct surface temperature to reach dew point, which is the temperature when condensation begins to form. Over time this condensation will degrade the insulation’s R value and its ability to prevent the duct temperature from reaching dewpoint.